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Repainting wooden windows, doors and joinery


Resene Popular Paint Systems – exterior timber: training notes

This web page is an edited version of the Resene Best System Selling training notes provided to Resene staff and is provided to enable you to gain a greater understanding of the substrates and paint systems you may encounter in your decorating project. It is impossible to cover all decorating scenarios in a single document, so if you are in doubt about any aspect of your project please contact Resene for assistance.

How to repaint wooden windows, doors and joinery

Note: Refer to the PDF flowchart for a visual of the steps below:

  1. Treat moss and mould using Resene Moss & Mould Killer

  2. Thoroughly wash and scrub using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash, a Scotchbrite pad is ideal

  3. Sand any flaking paint and inside facings of the window and frame

    • Remove or strip any perished or unstable paint - typically the windowsill
    • Condition stripped areas with Resene TimberLock
  4. Spot prime using Resene Quick Dry Primer or Resene Wood Primer

  5. Replace any putty using Red Devil synthetic putty, fill any nail holes etc, spot prime putty using Resene Wood Primer after allowing 24 hours to cure

  6. Topcoat options...

    • We recommend 2 coats of Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel
    • Alternatively for high gloss finish recommend 2 coats of Resene Enamacryl waterborne gloss

Also consider using: Mouldefender and CoolColour

Repainting wooden windows, doors and joinery - exterior

Notes:

  • The best way to wash and prepare windows is to use Resene Paint Prep and Housewash and 3M scourer or Scotchbrite pad which is effective at reaching edges and recesses of windows.

  • Although not always done, the top, internal and bottom faces of the window should be painted.

  • Hack out and replace putty that has dried out and come loose – we recommend Red Devil or Bostik Synthetic putty as they can be primed within 24 hours with Resene Wood Primer and then painted with Resene Lustacryl or Resene Enamacryl (traditional putty needs to cure for two weeks).

  • The inside faces will need sanding to ‘de-gloss’ them. Old enamel paint not exposed to U.V. light (the inside faces of windows and frames in particular) gets harder and more brittle over time and will need thorough sanding before painting. The exposed faces will need washing to ‘de-chalk’ if the paintwork is sound.

  • Substrates that are exposed at a 45 degree angle to the sun are subject to twice the level of U.V. attack that a vertical or horizontal surface will. In the same way that our nose will get sun burnt more quickly that our cheeks. This is why the top edge of a window sill will deteriorate more quickly than other painted surfaces.

  • We recommend Resene Lustacryl as its lower gloss conceals imperfections more effectively than the higher gloss Resene Enamacryl.

Scourer Flaking paint Glazing Compound

Key accessories

  • Resene Moss & Mould Killer
  • Resene Paint Prep and Housewash
  • Scotchbrite pad
  • A good quality brush is recommended
    • 35 or 50 mm Legend Cutting in brush
  • Contract filler for any cracks or nailheads
  • 100 to 120 grit zinc sterate sandpapers for preparing and 180 to 220 grit for sanding fillers etc.
  • Paint pot to decant into
  • Red Devil Putty and Putty Knife if needed
  • Scrapper and spare blades to remove excess dry paint from window

Add ons

  • Drop sheets
  • Resene Hot Weather Additive for hot dry conditions
  • Resene Galvo-One for spot priming Galvanised Iron flashings
  • Turps for Resene TimberLock, Resene Galvo-One or Resene Wood Primer if needed
  • Painter’s gloves (good for sanding and painting)
  • Resene MoulDefender
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