Resene Popular Paint Systems – exterior timber: training notes
This web page is an edited version of the Resene Best System Selling training notes provided to Resene staff and is provided to enable you to gain a greater understanding of the substrates and paint systems you may encounter in your decorating project. It is impossible to cover all decorating scenarios in a single document, so if you are in doubt about any aspect of your project please contact Resene for assistance.
Select the timber surface you will be painting from the list below to view how to prepare and finish the surface.
Preparation & finishing flowcharts
Note: Refer to the PDF flowchart for a visual of the steps below:
Treat moss and mould with Resene Moss & Mould Killer
Wash and scrub using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash - pay particular attention to flaking areas
Remove all perished or unstable paint - see notes
Sand any exposed timber and surface imperfections
Fill holes and gaps with Contract filler and gap filler
Sand filled areas with 220 grit sandpaper and spot prime as above
The paintwork will be characterised by lots of bare timber, crocodiled and flaking paint; there will likely be rusty nailheads, dirt, salt and other contaminants as well as moss and mould especially on the South side.
While waterblasting will remove paint it is likely to ‘gouge’ the timber and isn’t as effective as Resene Paint Prep and Housewash at de-chalking and removing contaminants.
Badly damaged and unstable paint needs to be removed. Burning off with a hot air gun is very slow which is why most professional painters use a mechanical stripper or linbide scraper, which is remarkably quick at removing poorly adhered paintwork although there is the risk of gouging the timber. It is also tedious and unpleasant work although innovative products such as the ‘Sea to Sky’ stripping range are proving popular as they are simple and safe to use.
Resene TimberLock is ideal for bare timber as a surface pre-treatment and performs a similar function to Sureseal’s on old powdery surfaces. Use when you believe paint will need to be stripped – especially on the North and North East elevations of a home.
Treat nailhead corrosion.
The paint may well contain lead, which we are happy to test for. If it the test is positive then you will need to take precautions including ensuring nearby soil isn’t contaminated and that lead in sanding dust isn’t ingested.
After sanding, prime the same day, as night time dew will creep under the freshly sanded paintwork and the edges will curl and lift – plan the prep work so that this is achieved.
The prepared surface will have repaired cracks, old paintwork and new freshly primed timber it will be less than perfect when compared to new weatherboards.
That is why we recommend Resene Sonyx 101 over Resene Hi-Glo, as its lower gloss will not highlight imperfections in old timber and paintwork or Resene Lumbersider if it is particularly rough.