Answers to your questions from our Paint Experts, p 26

Q. I need to stain a work bench with a black stain. It has been well polyurethaned (at least a couple of coats). Do I need to strip right back or can I simply stain over?

A. Yes as the stain coat needs to be applied to the timber.

Q. Can you apply a coating to help contain formaldehyde?

A. Yes but to hold back the formaldehyde the full number of coats would be required to all surfaces, envelope coating (all four sides).

Q. I've just finished skimming some walls with GIB® Plus 4 and want to apply the correct undercoat/primer between the plaster and acrylic topcoats. Which product would you recommend for this?

A. For dry areas use Resene Broadwall Waterborne Wallboard Sealer.

Q. We have dark brown aluminium joinery door frames inside our house. Some of the frames are faded from cleaning with incorrect products, I believe. What is the best solution to renewing the colour?

A. Painting is the only option but this will not give the same smooth even finish of the original powder coating.

Q. We have an outdoor courtyard entertaining area. At one end is a COLORBOND® roller door and at the end is a pergola and TV mounted on the house wall. There is a lot of light reflecting from the roller door onto the TV. What is the best type of paint to limit the amount of reflection? I assume a matt black or grey. We would prefer a dark colour but not a black.

A. If there does not appear to be any corrosion of the roller door surface, clean down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and used to label directions then apply two coats of Resene Summit Roof in the Resene CoolColour™ version of the colour you select.

Q. We have a plastered wall with rock capping and mortar. The lime is leaching and running down the plaster which looks really ugly. In addition on paved steps with plaster upstands there is the same problem.

A. If you can remove the efflorescence then apply a saturation coat of Resene Solventborne Aquapel - this will reduce the potential for leaching. You may need to resort to application of a dilute hydrochloric acid solution (need to wear full protective gear as the concentrate and solution is corrosive, always add acid to water and not vice versa) to remove the efflorescence but suggest that you try power wire brushing as the first step. The original cause of the efflorescence should be eliminated prior to repainting.

Note: Efflorescence is caused by water getting into concrete often via cracks or faulty flashings, cappings etc. in an exterior wall. The source of the water causing the efflorescence needs to be found and eliminated before repainting. Affected areas should also be allowed to dry out thoroughly before repainting.

Q. I want to repaint a west facing exterior Fibrolite wall for maximum weatherproofing. It was painted with Resene Lumbersider some years ago. I am considering Resene AquaShield or Resene X-200. The rest of the house is Adobe finish plaster. I was also considering a thick paint with a sand type material in it. Please advise suitability, the difference between these or other suggestions.

A. If there are no moisture issues and the existing paint is sound you can apply two coats of Resene Sandtex to achieve a sand type of texture. Scrub down the existing paint with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions then apply the new paint.

Resene X-200 applied to achieve a dry film thickness of 180 microns would be our recommendation to achieve a weathertight paint system; you can then apply Resene Sandtex if you want the sand-like texture appearance.

Q. We have decided to replace our cladding with new Hardiflex®. Please advise the painting process for this product to protect it from weather. Would we still use Resene X-200 as the final coat?

A. Apply Resene Concrete Primer to the new FC and then apply two coats of Resene X-200. Hardiflex® correctly installed should not be subject to water ingress.

Q. There is a thin brass strip covering the raw edges of ceramic tiles on corners in my bathroom. These don't get wet. What product should I use to paint them to match the tiles?

A. Prime the brass with Resene Vinyl Etch then apply two coats of colour tinted into any of our waterborne enamels, such as Resene Lustacryl.

Q. I have a concrete block internal wall that has efflorescence that is causing the paint to bubble. What is the best way to prepare the surface before repainting?

A. Efflorescence is caused by water getting into concrete often via cracks or faulty flashings, capping etc, in an exterior wall. The source of the water causing the efflorescence needs to be found and eliminated before repainting. Affected areas should also be allowed to dry out thoroughly before repainting.

Thoroughly wire brush to remove any remaining efflorescence. The original cause of the efflorescence should be eliminated prior to repainting.

Q. I would like to paint my rimu floorboards (previously unfinished). Would Resene Walk-on be a good choice for a low maintenance finish? I have rescue dogs so I need something that will stand up to dogs, and their occasional accidents!

A. The only system that would have a chance of achieving a scratch resistant surface to dog claws would be four coats of Resene Polythane clear.

Q. I have a rental with old fences I'd like to tidy up. They are nothing super flash, and I’m not sure if I can stain the already stained sections? What is the best way to clean them up first? Rather than stain, do I seal and then paint them? And the unstained fence sections: do I stain them or also paint?

A. I would really only recommend staining, as the fence timbers are likely to be old and heavily contaminated with algae growth.

Treat with Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label directions, then carefully water blast, and then apply Resene Woodsman Wood Oil stain.

Q. Can you put Resene Lumbersider paint on to an oil-based primer?

A. Yes, you can use Resene Lumbersider.

Q. I use many of your testpots with the great variety of colours available but when applied to sealed sanded wood I can’t seem to get a smooth finish. I have tried different brushes bur wonder if there is a better way to a more even finish.

A. The testpot paint is based on a waterborne paint resin and compared to many other similar paints it is formed at a high solids level. We recommend addition of Resene Hot Weather Additive for application of our waterborne paints under warmer conditions.

Added at the recommend level the Resene Hot Weather Additive also gives the wet film an increased open time which should allow for more flow and levelling to occur.

Q. I am currently working on repainting the outside of my weatherboard house and after stripping all the old paint to the naked wood I applied a Resene Sureseal primer. Subsequently I was told that Resene Sureseal is for concrete and that I need to strip it all back and start again. I would like to confirm whether Resene Sureseal is unsuitable for naked wood?

I would like a recommendation on what paint and filler is most suitable for my needs. My house has quite old weatherboards with plenty of cracks and dents. The house is located near the beach and is very exposed to UV rays and ocean storms with salt and ironsand spray. What is the most weather resistant gap filler and main coat of Resene paint that I could use?

Our house is nestled amongst the bush so our natural preference would be for a matt/low sheen finish so the house would blend in better into the surroundings. However, we have been advised in the past that a gloss finish would have better sun and weather tolerance properties due to a smoother finish nature.

A. The time to the onset of chalking is directly related to the gloss level of the paint, the higher the gloss level the longer the time till onset of chalking.

Finishing with a high gloss paint has fallen out of favour with the general public and specifiers. We recommend using Resene Sonyx 101 as the exterior topcoat system as this gives a good durable gloss level between a full (Resene Hi-Glo) and lower gloss finish (Resene Lumbersider). If using dark colours we recommend application of the CoolColour™  version of the colour as the CoolColour version will reflect more heat than the same colour made using non-cool technology and thus reduces stress on both the paint film and substrate.

Resene Sureseal is not usually recommended for priming of exterior timber as it does not have all of the benefits/features that come with Resene Wood Primer. Despite this it can be used for priming but in your case I recommend overpainting with a full coat of Resene Quick Dry to upgrade the primer system.

We stock RepairCare products for repairs to cracked and minor areas of rot in timber.

Q. I want to damp/moisture proof my garage concrete floor. What type of paint can do this work effectively and withstand the moisture? This is a 1950s house, so in all likelihood, the garage floor would not have a poly layer, prior to concreting.

A. We recommend Resene HydraBlock waterborne epoxy barrier. Resene HydraBlock is a transparent two pack, low VOC waterborne epoxy barrier coating, for application to cementitious surfaces, subject to hydrostatic pressure. It has excellent adhesion and is tolerant of application over damp surfaces. It controls rising damp and efflorescence. Typical uses: Masonry – walls, in-situ concrete – walls/floors and plastered walls.

Q. I am currently working on repainting the outside of my weatherboard house, and after stripping all the old paint to the naked wood, I applied Resene Sureseal primer. Subsequently, I was told that Resene Sureseal is for concrete and that I need to strip it all back and start again. Could you confirm however, that Resene Sureseal is unsuitable for naked wood?

Also, I would like a recommendation on what paint and filler is most suitable for my needs. My house has quite old weatherboards with plenty of cracks and dents. The house is located near the beach and is very exposed to UV rays and ocean storms with salt and iron sand spray. What is the most weather resistant gap filler, and main coat of Resene paint that I could use?

Our house is nestled amongst the bush, so our natural preference would be for a matt/low sheen finish so the house would blend in better into the surroundings. However, we have been advised in the past that a gloss finish would have better sun and weather tolerance properties, due to a smoother finish nature.

A. Resene Sureseal is not usually recommended for priming of exterior timber, as it does not have all of the benefits/features that come with Resene Wood Primer. Despite this, it can be used for priming but in your case I recommend overpainting with a full coat of Resene Quick Dry to upgrade the primer system.

We stock RepairCare products for repairs to cracked and minor areas of rot in timber.

The time to the onset of chalking is directly related to the gloss level of the paint, the higher the gloss level the longer the time until onset of chalking.
Finishing with a high gloss paint has fallen out of favour with the general public and specifiers. We recommend using Resene Sonyx 101 semi-gloss as the exterior topcoat system, as this gives a good durable gloss level between a full (Resene Hi-Glo) and low sheen finish (Resene Lumbersider). If using dark colours, we recommend application of the Resene CoolColour™ version of the colour, as the CoolColour version will reflect more heat than the same colour made using non-cool technology (however not cool to touch), and thus reduces stress on both the paint film and substrate.

Q. I have a white picket fence where some nail heads have gone rusty. What do I treat them with before applying topcoat?

A. Remove all loose rust and carrion product using a 3M Rust and Paint Removal Disc, then spot prime the nail heads with Resene Rust Arrest, then apply topcoats.

If there is corrosion staining coming from behind the nail heads, then the system cannot address this.

Q. We live in Fiji. The white oil based paints on our window and door frames are constantly going mouldy. This is a real problem because many are extremely difficult to reach to clean. Why does this happen and what can be done? It is a huge job if we have to repaint. If we used water based or low sheen, would we still have the same problem?

A. The occurrence of mould growth on a painted surface is related to the environment and not the paint type, although low gloss paints do appear to be more susceptible to the establishment of mould growth. In Fiji the climate does see increased biological growth on exterior painted surfaces. Application of Resene Deep Clean will give ongoing control of mould growth and is slow acting; biological growth is killed and then washed off with rain. I would say that a biannual application would be a sensible approach.

Q. I am thinking of painting over some two pack, kitchen cupboard doors etc., preferably with acrylic gloss or semi-gloss paint.

A. Use Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner to ensure the surfaces to be painted are clean and free from grease, paying particular attention to hand contact areas. Lightly sand, dust off, then apply a thin coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer and allow curing without water contact, for at least 48 hours before over coating. Then apply two coats of Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen or Resene Lustacryl waterborne enamel. Roll all coats using the recommended roller sleeve.

The new paint system will take five days to develop good initial adhesion, and continue to cure for an additional three weeks, until full cure occurs. In the early stages, the paint surface will not have good resistance to cleaners or abrasion as these features develop as the film undergoes curing.

Q. I am planning on using treated plywood for the bottom half of our bathroom walls. What prep would you suggest prior to whitewash being applied? I am planning to use whitewash paint, or 2 parts water: 1 part paint.

A. I suggest that the ‘paint’ you use is Resene Quick Dry, then overcoat with 3+ coats of Resene Polythane.

Q. We have a concrete deck with fibreglass topping, with peeling paint. We need a paint that will withstand foot traffic, snow in winter and possibility of minus 16 degrees, with heat up to the 40s in summer.

The paint isn’t sticking to the fibreglass. Prior owners have painted it with house paint and when we get rain, the water gets under the paint and it bubbles then lifts.

A. Strip the existing paint system, degrease with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions, sand to profile, then apply a coat of Resene Armourcote 221 and finish with two coats of a Resene Uracryl 400 Series topcoat. For wet slip resistance add 500g/L Resene Industrial SRG Grit to the first coat and then apply a seal coat of unmodified Resene Uracryl 440 Series topcoat.

Q. I have just spent three days scrubbing my extensive, ground level wooden decking, free of black mould and it looks great. Is there a Resene product to back up my hard work and keep it looking that way? I am elderly and would not like to face applications of anything too frequently. Ease of application would be a bonus!

A. Yes, Resene Deep Clean (see attached data sheet), you may have to adopt a biannual application, at the beginning of autumn and again at the beginning of spring.

Q. I have cedar weatherboards, which have previously been stained with oil based stain, there is some mould evident. Which is the best cleaner to use before re-staining?

A. Treat mould areas with Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label directions, then scrub down using Resene Timber and Deck Wash diluted again used to label directions.

Q. I have recently painted some brand-new skirting boards and used Resene Wood Primer 'general purpose' solvent-borne, then a Resene Enamel undercoat 'general purpose', before eventually applying several topcoats of Resene Enamacryl gloss waterborne (white) as I did not want a high gloss finish. Is it ok to use solventborne 'base coats', topped with waterborne 'topcoats'?

A. Yes no issues, but to achieve the best adhesion of the waterborne enamel topcoats, I prefer the topcoats to be applied to Resene Quick Dry Primer Undercoat.

Q. Does Resene have a weathertight clear-coat paint/coating system available for honed or surface-exposed solid filled masonry blockwork walls when they are being used as part of the external envelope of a building?

A. We recommend Resene XC-700.

Q. Does existing Resene Uracryl need to be undercoated if recoating with Resene Uracryl?

A. A Resene Uracryl 400 Series finish does not need undercoating as long as the existing Resene Uracryl 400 Series finish is chalk free and sound. If the system has been applied to a metal surface and the system has lost adhesion due to corrosion breakthrough then repairs and installation of an appropriate priming system is required.

Q. I want to paint a concrete floor in our shop. The staff have picked their colour but I need help on what paint to use that is not going to be slippery and is easy to sweep/clean.

A. We recommend Resene Aquapoxy for Flooring.

Q. Prior to repainting, can I wash my exterior stucco walls with Resene Roof Wash and Paint Cleaner? I have a new 1L container of it I would like to use. Also, do I need to rinse after the wash? Do I need to use Resene Moss & Mould Killer too?

From reading up on your website. It states that mould will be present on stucco even if I can’t see it. If I now must use Resene Moss and Mould Killer, after 48hrs do I then also have to use Resene Paint Prep and Housewash?

A. We recommend using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions for preparing painted stucco, and yes it does require a thorough rinsing with water.

The products have different roles to play in preparing a painted surface for repainting; Resene Moss & Mould Killer is designed to kill biological growth, while Resene Paint Prep and Housewash is a general cleaner aimed at producing a clean, chalk free surface.

So you may well have to use both, depending upon the contamination and condition of the painted surfaces.

Q. I am about to start painting a small toilet closet which has previously been stained; but that would have been about 70 years ago. This little room has been subject to quite a lot of borer infestation in the past, but I think I have mainly got on top of that now. To paint the room, should I start with a sealer, or would a wood primer be better? I feel the first coat of paint would be best to be painted in an enamel based paint, to hopefully help deter borer happening again.

The house is an ex-state house and I think the timber on the wall is called ‘match’ lining, or something to that effect. It was often used as wall linings in laundries and toilets. The wall staining is now very old but is still quite a dark brown. I am intending to lighten up the closet with a lighter colour. I am wondering if the first coat should be a sealer rather than a primer.

A. The application of Resene Wood Primer will not address or impact upon borer control.

If there has been no recent repainting, then the existing paint is likely to be old enamel paint and given the age of the dwelling, it may be an old lead containing paint. For this reason, I would advise against sanding to prepare for a new paint system. Clean down using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner and then apply a thin coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer and finish with two coats of Resene Resene Lustacryl.

The new paint system will take five days to develop good initial adhesion and continue to cure for an additional three weeks until full cure occurs. In the early stages, the paint surface will not have good resistance to cleaners or abrasion as these features develop as the film undergoes curing.

Q. I am painting new Glulam posts on a carport. I note in the Glulam blurb about not painting Glulam materials dark colours. Our intention was to paint these to match the Ironsand cladding. What is the LRV of Ironsand? It is not in a truly hot or full sun site (it’s in the bush). What guidance would you give?

A. The LRV of the colour is 10. If you apply a coat of Resene Wood Primer and two coats of the CoolColour™ version of Ironsand, you will get more heat reflection than the same topcoat colour made with non-cool pigmentation, but the surface however, will not be cool to touch. If there is no direct sunlight falling on the Glulam, the issue of colour may not be of great concern compared to Glulam, subject to the full effects of the weather.

Q. We are painting the outside of our house. There is some replacement cedar that has been up about a year. We have used Resene Wood Primer on this. Do we need another undercoat or can we go straight to topcoat?

A. You should be able to apply any Resene exterior waterborne topcoat directly.

Q. Would Resene Armourcote 512 be suitable for refinishing a polyester epoxy, kayak hull and deck?

A. The answer is a definite no - our suggestion is after thoroughly degreasing and a sand of the surface, apply a full coat of Resene Armourcote 221 and finish with two coats of Resene Uracryl 403.

Q. I maintain a property with a block wall. This wall is also the side of the house with the blocks exposed on the inside. Moisture is getting into the blocks, which is in turn, getting into the house. The flashings have been replaced, but the blocks themselves are tracking moisture internally. I have removed a small fence that was attached and need to remove the bolt holes, and seal.
What paint system do you recommend to seal these blocks? I will wire brush the existing paint, but assume some will remain attached.

A. The system we recommend is the Resene X-200 system.

The application of the full system will give a weathertight, but not a watertight, acrylic membrane. You should also check all pointing, to ensure that there are no faults that will allow water ingress.

Q. Can I use Resene Non Skid Deck & Path on floor tiles? The tiles are in good condition on an external patio. The tiles are ceramic and they are glazed but with a non-slip finish. They are about 40 years old.

A. Apply an adhesion coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer to the cleaned tiles and leave to dry for 48 hours, and then apply two coats of Resene Non-Skid Deck & Path.

Q. Why can’t Quick Dry be tinted?

A. Addition of tinters can affect the performance properties of a primer, for this reason, our long standing policy has been not to tint a primer.

Q. Do you have paint which is safe for babies to chew? I want to paint a cot.

A. We recommend using Resene Environmental Choice paints such as Resene Lustacryl  for this application; allow the paint to dry for two weeks, and then wipe down with warm water and a cloth, rinsing the cloth often before putting the cot back into use.

Q. I am looking at a product to go over natural Shadowclad®. I want to achieve a flat look that resembles the appearance of a stain to show natural wood textures. What should I use? I want to use a charcoal black.

A. Resene Woodsman Pitch Black CoolColour™ would be our recommendation; two coats are required. Note that while the strain is semi-transparent from a distance the colour may well look like a solid colour.

Q. I have to paint a previously painted entry/decking; what paint do you recommend please? It has been painted - not stained – and needs a new colour, something that will take general wear and tear.

A. Resene Walk-on would be our recommendation, if overcoating a sound unknown paint type clean down, sand then apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry before application of the Resene Walk-on coats.

Q. I have had my concrete roof tiles waterblasted. Quite a bit of the glazing has come off to expose the concrete. I wish to repaint eventually but I understand they will need sealing first? What product/products should I use?

A. Use Resene Sureseal for sealing bare concrete priming.

Q. Is it safe to sleep in a room that has been painted that day?

A. If a solventborne paint has been used, then no. While waterborne paints are low VOC (volatile organic compounds) the rate of removal of these from the room air space depends on temperature and ventilation. To be safe, I would say ensure good ventilation and heating, and allow 24 hours before reoccupying the room for sleeping.

Q. I have a building to paint. It is a mixture of aluminium siding, with some concrete breeze block. I have estimated it at 50sqm walls, with 30sqm of awnings and I’m assuming it will need two coats. What type of paint would be best?

A. Scrub down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and used to label directions. Apply a coat of Resene Galvo-Prime and two coats of Resene Summit Roof. I recommend application of the CoolColour™ version of the topcoat colour, if available.

Q. Do you have paint that is coloured and can be applied to the back of a clear glass, splashback?

A. To get the same colour seen through the glass applied to the reverse side, you need low iron glass that has been heat treated.

Clean the glass to be coated, by wiping with methylated spirits and a clean cloth. Do this a couple of times using a different cloth each time.

Then spray Resene Imperite IF 503 tinted to your chosen colour. Allow this to cure overnight then apply a coat of the same product, tinted to a medium grey. The backing colour is to avoid any direct contact of the paint colour on the glass, with the fixing adhesive. The fixing adhesive must be a neutral cure type.

Q. One of your technical guys advised on this floor a year or two ago and was very helpful. It has had damage from the earthquake and now needs ripples smoothed out, and recoating.

All I can tell you is that, there is a two part water based epoxy on the floor now (concrete floor). It is a question of what will be suitable to go on the floor now and the preparation needed, without being over the top.

A. Thanks for confirming the floor paint type - when the existing paint type is known, then it does make it easier to give advice on an appropriate prep and paint system.

Clean down the existing paintwork, using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner, and then thoroughly sand the existing coating to achieve a mechanical profile for the new paint system.

Then apply the Resene Aquapoxy for Flooring system. If you don’t need the anti-slip properties, then you can omit addition of the SRG Grit to the second coat.

Q. We have a stone chip coating, steel tile roof. No rust, but it has started to fade and I don’t think it has ever been painted.

Can you please give advice as to what products you would recommend? I'm guessing standard, steel roof paint will not be sufficient, due to the stone chip coating.

The stone chip is embedded in a bitumen base, but some has more stone chip than others.

A. If this is the standard of the existing roof system over the whole roof then clean down with Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and used to label directions. Then apply a full coat of Resene Galvo-Prime and two coats of Resene Summit Roof in the CoolColour™ version of the selected colour if available.

Q. I have a brass lamp base. Is it possible to paint it and if so, what prep is best please?

A. Apply a coat of Resene Vinyl Etch, then apply two coats of a Resene waterborne enamel topcoat.

Q. We want to find a suitable non-slip paint coating, for a wheelchair test ramp. The surface of the ramp will be made of plywood.

A. Resene Non-Skid Deck & Path has the best wet slip resistance of our waterborne paints, and can be applied to any appropriately primed substrate. Use Resene Wood Primer and then Resene Quick Dry as the undercoat.

Q. I have a particle/chipboard flooring that will be carpeted. I would like to seal the particle board to prevent any liquid spills from seeping through into the particle board.

A. We recommend two or more coats of Resene Polythane.

Q. Does Resene have a tinted concrete sealer that protect exterior concrete to make it easier to clean and maintain. It's for a patio so just foot traffic. Would prefer something water based if possible.

A. We recommend Resene Walk-on Concrete Clear.

Q. I would like to give my cork tile floor a transparent whitewashed effect. Is this possible? The cork tile floor is in my kitchen so it would need to be durable. The floor has a clear seal on it at present which is starting to wear.

A. Clean the floor using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner and sand to provide a mechanical profile for the new coating. Apply a coat of Resene Colorwood Whitewash and then two coats of Resene Aquaclear.

If you want to increase the level of whiteness then add Resene Colorwood Enhance White at the recommended addition rate to one of both of the Resene Aquaclear coats.

Q. I am working on a residential project; a house that has a Lockwood style interior, however the timber look is a bit overwhelming.

It looks as though it has a polyurethane coating at present. They would like to blonde the timber and would like some advice as to how this would be achieved.

A. Many owners of Lockwood homes are moving to change the dark varnished look that came with the original Lockwood construction. A change to a solid color is a relatively easy option, bonding requires more surface prep.

Degrease using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner then sand to provide a mechanical profile; sanding does not need to remove the existing varnish layer. Then apply Resene Colorwood Whitewash.

Resene Colorwood Whitewash is a clear waterborne varnish with a low level of added white colorant. When applied care has to be taken to achieve a uniform lay down of the wet coating and especially areas of overlap as there will be an increase of white intensity resulting for a buildup of coating at overlap areas. So it is best to work in a continuous direction and coat an entire length.

There is expansion and contraction of the boards in Lockwood construction; this is due to variations in the moisture content of the boards due to changes in air humidity levels. If this does occur post coating there may appear a line at the overlap of the two boards and the only way to address this is to apply the same procedure as previously outlined.

Q. I have a ply exterior weatherboard that has previously been sealed with Resene Woodsman, I am wanting to redo this with a dark colour but I notice I have what looks to be mould (black) on the wood near the ground and also in shaded areas. I read about mould killer - is it spray application or brush on please?

A. You can use a small garden sprayer to apply the diluted Resene Moss & Mould Killer to areas of mould. Make sure your wear protective clothing and gloves and eyewear to apply the product as the solution is bleach based and alkaline.

Q. Our house is clad with black Onduline, a corrugated bitumen-impregnated cellulose fibre which we want to paint. We have been advised we will need bitumen-compatible water based paint. It was on the house when we bought it, 13 years ago. I think it is about 15 years old. Overall it is in fairly good condition, but has now begun to fade in some places.

A. Scrub down with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions. Apply a prime coat of Resene Galvo-Prime and finish with two coats of Resene Lumbersider. If selecting a dark colour apply the Resene CoolColour™ version of the colour.

Q. I have a bare timber fence; I have recently waterblasted and want to paint it. What is the best Resene paint type to paint it? Also will it require a primer?

A. Was there any mould/algae growth on the fence timber prior to waterblasting? If there was you will still have to treat the timber with a solution of Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label directions then after 48 hours rinse well with water. While waterblasting will remove the obvious signs of biological growth it does not kill remaining spores in the timber which will grow back after painting. Waterblasting timber needs to be at a low pressure to avoid damage to the timber surface, damage can compromise the paint performance. In your situation I would apply Resene TimberLock (remove excess by wiping at time of application) , leave to cure for 48 hours then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lumbersider (use Resene CoolColour™ version if using a dark colour paint).

Q. I am painting the outside of a caravan, half fibreglass, half aluminium. We are sanding it back as far as possible to get the surfaces smooth. It will be mostly back to bare surfaces, or sanded smooth on solidly attached paint. We want to go single pack and have spoken to a Resene shop staff member and they suggested a vinyl etch base coat (I have this already) and then an acrylic topcoat (still to order). I just wanted to confirm it is acceptable to put an acrylic top over a dried solvent base? And also what topcoat would give the best wear/longevity?

A. Resene waterborne top coats can be applied to Resene Vinyl Etch primer. While this is a single pack system it will not achieve give the features of a two pack topcoat finish such as Resene Uracryl 403 (this can also be applied over Resene Vinyl Etch).

Q. We have recently completed upgrading our kitchen and laundry. We only have the door frames to complete. The issue is, the previous owners painted over the door frames but the paint is chipping off. When I start to sand back the old paint it just chips off, it looks like it has been stained originally. Even when I sand the stain, it is still really smooth.

A. Strip off all the existing paintwork, I suggest you use a heat gun and a tungsten blade scraper and then sand. You may have to use a coarser sandpaper first, and then reduce coarseness subsequently.

Q. I want a really tough, garage floor paint that can be roller applied and is white and preferably impermeable. I would like it to be able to be washed down easily.

A. We recommend Resene Aquapoxy for Flooring.

Q. Can I paint over a powder coated cabinet?

A. Yes. Clean down using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner and then apply a coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer, leave to dry for 48 hours then apply two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. When I buy tinted paint am I required to stir the paint again before applying?

A. It depends upon the paint that was tinted, the tints in a stain are prone to settling as the product viscosity is low and this does not help tinters remain in suspension, but irrespective of this, it is always good practice to stir the tinted paint with a wide flat stirrer before use.

Q. What is the best paint to use for my exterior gate? I live in a villa, so the gate is a heritage-style one. The gate is wooden, brand new and has been primed.

A. Not sure of the primer type that the gate came with, but a light sand and then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl (use the Resene CoolColour™ version of the colour if selecting a dark colour). The CoolColour™ will not make the surface cool to touch but will reflect more heat than the same colour made using non cool pigmentation, and thus reduce the heat stress on the painted substrate.

Q. What is the best clear polyurethane finish, for wood in a bathroom that is resistant to soap contact? I would prefer a semi-gloss finish.

A. Resene Polythane would give the best water and soap resistance but it is only available as a full gloss.

Q. Is 'Half Nocturnal' in a CoolColour, too dark for a sunny 1962 weatherboard house in Auckland? The house has been 'Double Napa' for the past 12 years and the weatherboards are still in good condition. It is too olive-toned for our taste.

A. The potential for paint failure is usually seen when a dark colour is applied over many layers of a previous pale colour, as the heat stress associated with the new colour can cause blistering of the old paint system.

However in your case, you have had a dark colour in place for some years and with no apparent issues, so application of the new colour in the CoolColour™ formulation over a base coat of Resene Quick Dry White, would give the maximum potential heat reflection. The new colour is very dark, sorry but we cannot give a guarantee that there will be no issues associated with the colour change, but the CoolColour™ system will give the best chance of reducing any issues.

Q. We are in the process of painting our barge boards on our 90s Oamaru Stone house. There is quite a bit of height involved, so we have to use scaffolding and want to do a good job. My wife wants to use a dark colour on the bare boards, as you have the CoolColour we are wondering how this compares with dark CoolColour in CoolColours compared to white. Not wanting to repeat this process for a long time, I am keen on plain white and I am hoping this will give the paint a long life, even with the weather elements attacking them over the years. I would appreciate your expertise on this matter.

A. Application of a Resene CoolColour™ topcoat will reflect more heat than the same colour applied made from non-cool technology, but a dark CoolColour can never give the heat reflection achieved with a white finish.

Q. Is it better to have aluminium, anodised before painting? What do you use to paint an aluminium fence?

A. The advantage of powder coating aluminium fencing is that it is easy to achieve a uniform paint finish. At some future point you will need to paint to maintain aesthetics. If the fence is new aluminium, then clean down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and used to label instructions, then apply a coat of Resene Galvo-Prime and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl, or for a two pack system a primer coat of Resene Armourcote 221 and two coats of Resene Uracryl 400 Series topcoat.

Q. I was wondering how often a stain finish would need to be applied if staining cedar weatherboards a dark grey colour. Would this be a year, two or five year sort of thing?

A. The stain colour has only a minimal effect upon recoat interval. We recommend applying the Resene CoolColour™ version of the stain colour if dark stain colours are used.

Resene exterior stains are designed to erode upon weathering; the higher the degree of weathering such as would occur on a northern elevation the faster the erosion.

On average a maintenance coat is required every third summer but this can be shorter due to environment.

Q. We are needing to restain our house which has cedar weatherboards (using Resene Waterborne Woodsman stain), and I am wondering if there is a better approach (quality of finish and time it takes) than the good old paint brush approach? For example I have heard of people using airless spray guns.

What is your recommendation on the best method of application?

A. The stain as supplied is at a low viscosity. Airless spray delivers a large volume of liquid to the surface, so there may be a propensity for runs to develop.

Q. We have an old house that has matai weatherboards. These weatherboards have very find splits in them. We stripped back all the old paint and sanded the weatherboards and then primed in Resene Quick Dry primer, once primed we painted it with three coats of Resene topcoat for houses.

Over a matter of months in the sun the timber must have moved and the paint has lifted where the splits are. The splits are very fine and all over the board in general.

What can we do to overcome this problem? Do we have to prime with oil based primer first? Or will it be a matter of removing all boards with splits and replacing them which is about 90% of the house.

A. Suggest that you do a trial area as follows; Strip back an area to bare timber and then fill the cracks using Repair Care Dry Flex SF Filler to manufacturer's instructions then prime with Resene Quick Dry and apply two coats of a Resene exterior waterborne topcoat. If using a dark colour then use the CoolColour version of the topcoat colour.

Monitor the area over summer and see if the cracking issue reoccurs; if not then problem solved.

Q. What preparation do I have to do to repaint our concrete block wall? Also what type of paint do you recommend?

A. Treat all surfaces with Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label directions. Leave for 48 hours then waterblast.

When dry apply a seal coat of Resene Sureseal and two coats of Resene Sonyx 101.

Q. What paint should I use to recoat the inside of a pewter 'snack' bowl? I am going to put peanuts etc into the bowl.

A. Oil based paints would give the best adhesion. After degreasing, prime using Resene Galvo One and then apply two coats of either Resene Super Gloss or Resene Lusta-Glo enamel, then leave to cure for at least three weeks. Wipe down with a cloth and warm water, with a dish detergent liquid added before using.

Note: that the painted item cannot be cleaned in a dishwasher and is best cleaned by wiping with a damp cloth.

Q. I have recently purchased a house which has an old pine deck that has been painted. The paint is red and old and seems to be deteriorating and ‘chalking’ so comes off on your feet when you walk on it. Can you please recommend prep and what Resene product to use to repaint?

A. Scrub down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions. Apply a seal coat of Resene Wood Primer and finish with two coats of Resene Walk-on.

Q. I'm an artist wanting to know if I can use Resene Broadwall and/or even pigmented primer, as gesso for oil painting. I am experimenting with different materials to paint on such as hardboard, wooden panels, card, watercolour paper and potentially other things as well. I just need to know if these products are suitable for use on these surfaces and in conjunction with artist’s oil paint.

A. Recommended primers to use are:

• Hardboard - Resene Sureseal
• Wood - Resene Quick Dry

Q. I have a 50 year old plywood cupboard that became smelly, as it was in a house with liquefaction. It has strong family connections so I want to save it. I have washed down the inside with a bleach and dishwashing mix and it smells a lot better. What can I use to seal the inside? We don’t want paint, as we want to keep the wood finish, is there a varnish or waterbased varnish or something else we can use?

A. I suggest four coats of Resene Polythane.

Q. Is Resene Hawkes Blue, suitable as a roof colour?

A. The colour is an off white. If using as a roof colour I would apply a coat of Resene Clearcoat UVS over the base paint colour.

Q. I would like some advice please, for painting a brand new fibre-glass exterior door. I need an oil-based system and given how exposed it is to the sun, I need a CoolColour option. I have heard that it’s best to use a light tone colour on the door. The door is for my Mum and she had her heart set on Resene Havoc. With this new information that may be too dark.

A. Scrub down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions, and then sand using 240 grit sandpaper, dust off and apply a primer coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl  CoolColour™ (if available in your final chosen colour).

Q. I need to paint or clear coat some IBS Egger OSB Barn Lining. OSB (oriented strand board) is a moisture resistant, structural wood panel. Engineered in Germany from environmentally sustainable sourced softwood, it consists of three layers of wood strands bonded together with heat-cured adhesives.

A. This type of strand board has been in the NZ market for many years. For interior clear coatings in non-wet areas we recommend three coats of Resene Aquaclear. There may be a degree of fibre swelling occur due to moisture uptake by the board. For a solid paint finish apply a primer coat of Resene Quick Dry and then two coats of Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen or Resene Zylone Sheen.

Q. I have a new build home, made of brick and dressed shiplap cedar. The cedar areas were covered with Wood-X Haast. While cleaning my aluminium garage door, I have noticed that the surrounding cedar’s Wood-X finish is also ‘rubbing off’. A rinse and light brush with a soft bristled broom takes the cedar back to bare wood. Has this been an application error? Is this normal?

A. I have discussed this with our Wood X technical contact at Herman Pacific and they have advised:

Depending upon how much was applied, 20 months is around the time that you would look at applying a maintenance coat/s depending on facing, timber finish and grain type etc. The rubbing off is the fibres and the pigment on the surface. The oil component has continued to soak into the timber.

The correct application is to apply a coat and leave for 6 weeks plus to allow the oil to fully penetrate into the timber then apply a second coat.

Q. I have a Hardiplank woodgrain weatherboard that I have been staining over the years with a primer and a film forming finish. This product has been discontinued and I am looking for another product to continue with. What do you recommend?

A. Resene Forester is the only product we offer for this application.

Q. We are looking at repainting our 20 year old COLORBOND Karaka roof in New Plymouth (4km from coast). The paint is fading, especially on the northern side. Do we need to apply Resene Galvo-Prime to the whole roof? If using Resene Summit Roof Karaka CoolColour - do we need two coats?

A. There may be delamination on some flashing areas. Scrub down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash and remove failing paint by preparing with a 3M Rust and Paint Removal Disc. Spot prime any bare substrate with Resene Galvo One, and then apply two coats of Resene Summit CoolColour™ Karaka formulation. Application of a full coat of Resene Galvo-Prime will give the maximum heat reflection for the CoolColour system.

To extend the time to next maintenance, you can apply a coat of Resene Clearcoat UVS over the Karaka base colour. This will extend both the life and colour of the colour but it will give a gloss finish.

Q. We have an Insulclad Ultra System house that was repainted in with an elastomeric product. What elastomeric product could we use?

A. Resene X-300E is our elastomeric exterior waterborne paint.

Q. I am attempting to paint a mural, using a large cinema film poster as a surface. I've tried using Resene testpots and Resene Quick Dry primer, but both of these peel off easily. The poster is a kind of soft plastic or rubber. I've also tried sanding the surface, but this didn't seem to help. What should I do to the poster to make it a useable surface for painting on?

A. Resene waterborne paints including testpot paint do have good adhesion to rubber and some plastics such as OVC.

However, they do not adhere to plastics such as polyethylene or polypropylene. There are no adhesion primers that we have found to allow our waterborne topcoats to be applied to PE or PP plastics. The plastic is the issue.

The adhesion to PVC does take a few days to develop to the point where the applied film cannot be scraped off.

Q. What is the best paint to paint a concrete garage floor?

A. We recommend Resene Aquapoxy for Flooring.

Q. I am currently in the process of building an outdoor fireplace. The surround will be rendered with Rockcote. What paint would you recommend I paint the Rockcote with, as it will obviously be subjected to some degree of heat radiating out from the front of the steel firebox? I am concerned that the heat may cause a normal paint to bubble or blister.

A. If you can maintain hand contact on the surfaces to be painted when the fire is at full heat, then you can paint. You may have to wait to check this.

Q. I would like to paint a large stone Buddha in a Resene colour which I already have in Resene Lustacryl. It has an antiqued finish, which disappears in 6 months of outside elements. I was wondering whether I have to strip, then prep and topcoat.

Or can I just prep and paint? I am uncertain what prep paint is suitable, and whether I can use the Resene Lustacryl as topcoat.

A. My suggestion would be to allow the statue to weather for the minimum six months to remove whatever the coating on the surface is, and then scrub down with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions. Then apply a coat of Resene StainLock and finish with the two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. I would like some advice on painting our (previously unpainted) exterior front door please. Would Resene Quick Dry interior/exterior be appropriate for an undercoat or Resene Wood primer, as it is a wooden door? Also, what type of paint would you suggest as topcoat?

A. Is the door already painted, if not what is the timber used to make the door?

I recommend a coat of Resene Wood Primer (seal all edges as well as door face), an undercoat of Resene Quick Dry and then finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl (use the CoolColour™ version of the colour, if choosing dark colours). The CoolColour version of the colour reflects more heat than the same colour, made using non-cool pigments.

However, before painting check with the door supplier that the door has not been sealed at the factory, with a clear mineral oil sealer. If it has, then the recommended paint system cannot be applied and you will need to stain using a mineral oil based stain.

Q. How do I treat a rimu architrave in a bathroom? I want to show the timber colour and grain, but seal it from moisture.

A. Outside of a shower area use four coats of Resene Polythane. If possible, envelope seal with two coats and ensure end cuts are sealed to prevent water uptake.

Q. I have a new Vitex deck. I want to maintain the natural light colour, or allow to grey but not warp/crack/cup, with minimal ongoing maintenance.

Already after just a few weeks, I see dark mould spots on the untreated deck. The deck gets lots of sun and dries out easily.

A. While mould growth is normally associated with dark damp conditions; there are mould species that can grow on surfaces exposed to full sun.

There is no water, while clear oils/stains that will maintain as new appearance to the timber decking or allow the development of an even silvered look.

There are two ways to control mould growth, one is to treat with a bleach solution such as Resene Moss & Mould Killer, the other is to use Resene Deep Clean which is a slower acting product for mould control.

Q. I have an old late 60s house with stucco that has many hairline 1mm cracks. These are mostly, horizontal by windows. I'm pretty new at this but I'd like to waterproof the cracks while aiming to paint in the medium term. What would you recommend? I see brushable crack filler exists but is grey. That's a hard sell to my wife, so I guess I'd try to colour match old faded stucco and paint on top? There are also exposed patches of the underlying material, in a couple of places.

A. We would recommend using Resene X-200 to rectify the situation.

Q. What can I use to re-colour Firth concrete outdoor tiles?

A. We recommend Resene Concrete Stain.

Q. Could you please provide the painting solution of standard (OSB) board, for exterior use purpose? We want to use the cut off OSB to make a mailbox. Please let us know if you have got any painting solution.

A. We have not come across the board being used as an exterior cladding, although there are literature statements saying that it is an alternative to an exterior ply cladding material. Rendering edges watertight will be the biggest challenge.

OSB will be prone to water swelling particularly via an edge. Best suggestion is to envelope prime all sides with two coats of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat then apply a coat of Resene Enamel Undercoat and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. We need to repaint the COLORSTEEL roof of our bach, but the coating is delaminating. What is your recommended method, to prepare this roof so the new paint job will last?

A. High pressure waterblast to remove loose paint, and then apply a full coat of Resene Galvo One and finish with two coats of Resene Summit Roof CoolColour™.

Q. I have some large pots made of fibreglass. They are streaky grey and I want to paint them, and then plant in them.

A. Clean down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash diluted and used to label directions, then sand using 240 grit sandpaper. Dust off and apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. I bought some Resene X-200 paint 20 months ago and plan to use it now. Will the paint still be OK?

A. If unopened should be suggest you take it to a Resene ColorShop and ask then to put it on the shaker to re–mix it.

Q. I have a house painted in Resene X-200 and am doing a repaint. I have accidentally used Resene Lumbersider for cutting in. Can I paint over the Resene Lumbersider with Resene X-200?

A. Yes, there is no issue overcoating Resene Lumbersider with Resene X-200.

Q.   Our home has old wallpaper in the lounge and bathroom, what is the best way to remove it? A professional, or can we DIY and then paint it after? What's the best solution?

A.   If you want the walls to look really smooth so that a paint finish looks absolutely fabulous you could steam off the wallpaper (very gently so the old wall board doesn't get damaged) then seal the raw wall surface and apply several layers of plaster, smoothing and sanding back to a Level 4 finish and then sealing this porous surface and then applying two to three coats of paint. Some homeowners do it themselves, some hire a professional.

Only you know the answer to that. It is very important that the sealer that is used on older plasterboard walls that have never been painted be an oil based pigmented sealer, such as Resene Sureseal, to stop any staining bleeding through to make the plastered walls and paint look patchy or in the case of a bathroom to stop any hint of moisture or soapy substances ruining the painted surface.   If the wallpaper is in good condition, you could paint over it instead, rather than stripping it off.

Q. What type of wallpaper is best for bathrooms? Do they have to be waterproof? I like the idea of a fun print in my bathroom to change things up!

A. Bathrooms need all the help in the world to withstand moisture so top quality strong vinyl papers that are water poof and can be scrubbed if soap, shampoo and mould and moisture get onto the surface are the only ones worth considering.  The joins on the paper will always be at risk so you may need to ensure the edges are double pasted to stop them lifting. Lots of ventilation and carefully wiping any free moisture off the paper will help it to look its best in an area that is traditionally known to be tough on wall finishes and wallpaper.

Q. What product do I use to add some tint to a turpentine based clear varnish? I have some doors that I need to resurface, but the sun has faded the wood, and I need to revive the colour.

A. We do not tint our varnishes however you can add Resene Colorwood Enhance to Resene Aquaclear.

Q. I want to use your Resene Blacktop paint on our asphalt drive, which has minor moss in places. I assume I need to use your Resene Moss & Mould Killer. How long after I treat with the Resene Moss & Mould Killer can I paint the drive?

A. If it is only sporadic infestation, I would take a paint brush and dab the undiluted Resene Moss & Mould Killer onto the areas (wear protective clothing, gloves and eye protection). Leave for at least a week, then waterblast. This should allow time for the lichen to become loosened for removal.

Q. I will be painting gloss Resene Ironsand onto a Zincalume shed, could you please tell me how to prep and apply? The Zincalume is on a new shed, yet to be constructed and installed.

A. The best system is to apply a primer coat of Resene Galvo-Prime and then two coats of Resene Summit Roof CoolColour™. CoolColours are not cool to touch, but reflect more heat than the same colour made using non-cool technology.

Q. Can I paint aluminium ranch sliders and windows, to change the colour? I have some Resene Sonyx 101 waterborne semi-gloss. Can I use that?

A. Yes, but not using Resene Sonyx 101 as the finish coat. Clean down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and used to label directions, apply an adhesion coat of Resene Vinyl Etch and then two coats of Resene Uracryl 403.

Q. I have a horse harness sulky I want to paint black. The sulky frame is mostly hickory, with some metal. What Resene paint(s) should I use? The hickory is painted and the sulky is in good condition.

A. Sand the painted hickory to provide a mechanical profile for the new paint system. Apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Super Gloss enamel.

Q. I am thinking of painting the concrete floor of my garage. The concrete is nearly 30 years old and has recently had some crack repairs carried out on it. What product would you suggest?

A. Clean areas of grease/oil contamination with Resume Heavy Duty Paint Prep and Oil Remover following label instructions.

Then diamond grind the concrete to achieve a sound, smooth even texture, similar to 180 grit sandpaper. Apply a seal coat of Resene ArmourBond and finish with three coats of Resene Aquapoxy for Flooring.

Q. We have a situation where we want to paint windows a dark colour, in-line with heritage requirements, but the painter claims that that would void any warranties. I understood that there was a Resene solar paint that did not absorb heat. Is that correct and if so, what are the specs?

A. Dark colours applied to timber can cause warping or distortion, due to the heat absorbed by the dark colour. There is a greater chance of paint failure to occur, when dark colours are applied over many layers of paler colours.

 Resene CoolColour™ technology does not render the surface cool to touch; the Resene CoolColour reflects more heat than the same colour, made using non cool technology, which reduces but not eliminates heat related stress issues.

Q. Is there a way I could paint over vinyl flooring? It’s textured and in a high use area of the house (kitchen and dining room). Is it possible with some product, or would it just wear off? I am reasonably okay with a shabby chic bit of wear.

A. While we do have a possible system, it would wear on the tops of the profile under high traffic conditions. If this is acceptable, clean the floor down using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner and apply a thin coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer. Allow to dry without water contact for 48 hours, and then apply two coats of Resene Lustacryl. The paint system can take at least five days to develop adhesion.

Q. I have a client who has used Resene Write-on Wall Paint, on a large wall. And now they want to get rid of it, and just have a paint finished wall in Resene Double Thorndon Cream. What paint undercoat and topcoat, would I need to use?

A. Remove any residual pen markings by wiping with a cloth and methylated spirits, to give a mark free surface.

Then thoroughly sand and dust off, then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen.

Q. I have lifted the carpet on a kauri staircase. It must have had a carpet runner in the past, and there are three distinctive colours across each step; the outer one is very dark. Is there an easy product I could use to tidy them up and even out the colour, on a temporary basis? I would prefer a waterbased product.

A. You will need to thoroughly sand the steps. The only way to reduce colour differences would then be to apply, multiple coats of Resene Aquaclear with added Resene Colorwood Enhance.

I suggest that you visit a Resene ColorShop and talk to the shop staff and look at the in store Resene Woodcare stand.

Q. Our home has old wallpaper in the lounge and bathroom, what is the best way to remove it? A professional, or can we DIY and then paint it after? What's the best solution?

A. If you want the walls to look really smooth so that a paint finish looks absolutely fabulous you could steam off the wallpaper (very gently so the old wall board doesn't get damaged) then seal the raw wall surface and apply several layers of plaster, smoothing and sanding back to a Level 4 finish and then sealing this porous surface and then applying two to three coats of paint. Some homeowners do it themselves, some hire a professional.

Only you know the answer to that. It is very important that the sealer that is used on older plasterboard walls that have never been painted be an oil based pigmented sealer, such as Resene Sureseal, to stop any staining bleeding through to make the plastered walls and paint look patchy or in the case of a bathroom to stop any hint of moisture or soapy substances ruining the painted surface. If the wallpaper is in good condition, you could paint over it instead, rather than stripping it off.

Q. What type of wallpaper is best for bathrooms? Do they have to be waterproof? I like the idea of a fun print in my bathroom to change things up!

A. Bathrooms need all the help in the world to withstand moisture so top quality strong vinyl papers that are waterproof and can be scrubbed if soap, shampoo and mould and moisture get onto the surface are the only ones worth considering. The joins on the paper will always be at risk so you may need to ensure the edges are double pasted to stop them lifting. Lots of ventilation and carefully wiping any free moisture off the paper will help it to look its best in an area that is traditionally known to be tough on wall finishes and wallpaper.

Q. Do you have to undercoat if you are repainting with the same colour?

A. Not normally as long as the existing paintwork is sound and clean. However if you are applying a CoolColour™ version of a colour to the non-cool version of the same colour we do recommend applying a white basecoat such as Resene Quick Dry first to give the maximum heat reflection. A Resene CoolColour system will not render the surface cool to touch but the CoolColour system will reflect more heat than the same colour made on non-cool technology.

Q. Do you have a sealant suitable for a clear finish for existing block paving, including a moss deterrent?

A. We recommend Resene Walk-on Clear or Resene Walk-on Concrete Clear Wet Look. These are the two clear products we have, neither contain a moss deterrent. We recommend an annual or biannual treatment with Resene Deep Clean diluted and used to label instructions to control bio growth on a painted surface.

Q. I am painting a dark coloured concrete floor in a sunroom white. Do I clean it then buy a specific primer colour then the white colour? Is it a special concrete paint?

A. Degrease and then sand. Apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry Waterborne undercoat primer then finish with two coats of Resene Walk-on and a final coat of Resene Concrete Wax.

Q. I have some leftover paint and need to buy more but am wondering what paint I use for the walls, which are plaster I think, with wooden skirting boards. It’s a very old apartment building. I also need to paint the ceilings and I have had a problem with mould.

A. Use Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen for walls; if new apply a coat of Resene Broadwall Waterborne Wallboard Sealer then two coats of Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen. If panting a new bathroom apply a seal coat of Resene Sureseal, an undercoat of Resene Quick Dry and two coats of Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen Kitchen & Bathroom.

For skirtings sand and then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and then two coats of Resene Lustacryl.
For the ceilings treat the ceilings with Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label directions, then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and two coats of Resene SpaceCote Flat Kitchen & Bathroom.

Q. Can you tell me what steps I should take to apply paint over Wood-X successfully, rather than keep using Wood-X?

A. Sorry but once a Wood-X type stain has been used it cannot be painted over or stained with a different product. The product is based on a non-drying penetrative mineral oil and a waterborne product will not adhere to the surface properly and solventborne products reactivate the oil.

Q. I want to repaint a COLORBOND® roof. The original metal doesn't appear to be genuine - not sure what the original colour base was (acrylic or oil) as it has faded and peeled whereas the caps/ridges (likely genuine) have held fast the original colour. The plan is to clean, undercoat and top coat x 2. What products should I use for all three steps?

A. High pressure waterblast to remove all loose paint, then scrub down with Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and used to label directions. Spot prime bare metal with Resene Galvo One and finish with two coats of Resene Summit Roof. If you choose a dark colour we recommend using the Resene CoolColour™ version of the colour to give increased heat reflection compared to the same colour made using non-cool technology. A CoolColour will not render the painted surface cool to touch but it will be cooler than the same colour made using non-cool technology.

Q. I need some advice for staining my house please. It’s cedar and hasn’t be done for 15 years. Very faded and dry,

A. Apply Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label directions. Then scrub down with Resene Timber and Deck Wash again diluted and used to label directions then apply two coats of Resene Woodsman Wood Oil stain.

Q. I am painting the inside of a home. It’s all in very good condition and about 10 years old. It will be a change of colour from light green to a shade of grey. Do I have to use an undercoat first?

A. I would expect that an undercoat would not be needed. Just apply two coats of topcoat.

Q. Can Resene Lumbersider be used over the top of previously stained cedar using Resene Waterborne Woodsman stain? The cedar is rough sawn rusticated weatherboard.

A. It is possible to paint over Resene Woodsman if it has weathered for at least a year. Treat with Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label directions. Then give the weatherboards a really good scrub with Resene Timber and Deck Wash diluted following directions on the label. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow to dry. Then sand any exposed timber and surface imperfections as much as is possible given it is rusticated. Then prime with Resene Wood Primer. Resene Lumbersider can then be applied over this.

Q. Do you sell chalk paint or something similar?

A. Resene SpaceCote Flat and Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen which are waterborne enamel can be used on furniture etc to get a chalk style finish.

Q. I have a kitchen and bathroom which I suspect has been painted with oil based paints. I would like to repaint with waterborne paint. Is this possible?

A. Yes, clean down the surfaces to be painted, using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner, sand to profile and then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of a Resene Kitchen & Bathroom paint.

Q. I have a project which requires a wall to be sprayed with concrete. The wall is thick and has a rough screed finish. I need to paint the surface as soon as possible, after the job is complete. What paint do I use that will enable me to coat the surface soon after the job has been completed? I am concerned that the curing process may affect the paint I put on, and I need to have the area reinstated back into a show room as soon as possible.

A. We recommend you apply Resene LimeLock.

Q. We are using Resene Lumbersider for external and internal refinishing of rough sawn Oregon timber. The specs call for the application of Resene Moss & Mould Killer to the timber. Can you recommend a product that can be mixed with the paint, rather than being applied by separate coating?

A. Sorry, but agents that will kill mould cannot be added to paints, mould inhibitors can, but these will not deal with an existing outbreak of mould.

Q. I am seeking advice regarding spraying Resene Tennis Court Coating. I am looking for the best way to get an even coating. Three coats have been applied using a squeegee and high solids roller sleeve.

The roller sleeve has left lap marks and I think the squeegee is spreading the paint too thinly. I have noticed this coating can be sprayed and wondered if this is a better option for future applications.

A. The application issues to date, results from not maintaining a wet edge and an even wet film during application. Spray application of Resene Tennis Court Coating requires a large specialist spray unit, which are not commonly available in the local market.

Q. We would like to specify ground paint in the public realm, which is able to withstand foot traffic and occasional vehicle traffic. It needs to be non-skid and have a vibrant colour finish, if possible. It will be applied to concrete and bitumen.

We would ideally like it to be an orange colour similar to Resene Adrenalin.

Could you please describe the process which it can be applied? Does the surface require priming?

A. We recommend Resene Non-Skid Deck & Path.

The product is usually roller applied; due to the aggregate size used to produce the non-slip texture, a specific airless spray unit will be required for spray application.

The tint base required for the Resene Adrenalin is not standard tint base for the product line, but may be able to be made from one of our yellow tint bases.

Q. I am redecorating a bedroom. I want to know if I have to apply an undercoat to sanded windows, prior to applying the topcoat.

A. Yes, I suggest a coat of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat.

Q. I should like some advice on which primer to use on new Marley® spouting and downpipes?

I have looked through your range and can't find any that are recommended.

A. Resene exterior topcoats Resene Hi-Glo (gloss), Resene Sonyx 101 (semi-gloss) and Resene Lumbersider (low sheen) do not need primers when applied to PVC substrates such as Marley spouting products. Product adhesion develops over a few days and the rate of adhesion development is a function of temperature.

Q. At our museum we use your waterborne products for finishing display cases. What is the considered, safe gassing out period for contact with conservation purposes?

A. We have Oddy tests online.

The required time, post application to allow for release of volatiles from the applied paint system is product and temperature dependent. To be safe, I would allow the 28 days as given as part of the test protocol.

Q. We have some black steel skirting and angles on the same project. Vertical surfaces are ok but horizontal surfaces could do with some protection. The area is very small and the client accepts it may need cleaning down and recoating every few years.

What would you recommend as a clear finish?

We acknowledge the steel will rust and it will be difficult to get a good bond.

A. Ensure the steel is cleaned to remove grease/oil etc. then apply three coats of Resene Imperite IF 502 Clear. The clear coats will provide no corrosion protection to the steel and this system can only be used for interior steel.

Q. What undercoat do I need to use on a 1950s roughcast home that hasn't been repainted recently? I have been told conflicting things to do with lime in the rough cast affecting the paint.

I think the house has been in our family for about 25 years and I have never known it to be repainted but in the past it had an extension put on so must have been in its lifetime.

The paint on this is getting very worn and wearing off in places and it will need to be waterblasted which I expect will take off a lot.

My parents’ house is the same era and when they painted a few years ago they were told a specific oil based undercoat was needed.

The lady at the paint shop hadn't heard of this problem or undercoat.

A. After waterblasting spot prime any bare areas of concrete with Resene Sureseal. Overcoat the spot primed areas with a coat of Resene X-200 then apply two full coats of Resene X-200.

Q. I have a concrete floor to seal. We are a chemical/oil manufacturer and want a sealer to stop oil absorbing into the concrete surface. Wear abrasion resistance is also needed.

A. A full Resene Aquapoxy for Flooring system would need to be applied to clean diamond ground concrete.

Q. We have a second-hand glossy aluminium door in excellent condition that we are going to use on our boat shed. It is corrugated and has a rippled effect and is approximately 50 years old. Please advise the best product to use as primer.

A. Use Resene Vinyl Etch for single pack topcoats or Resene Armourcote 221 for two pack topcoats.

My recommendation for this application is Resene Armourcote 221 topcoated with two coats of Resene Uracryl 403 tinted colour.

Q. I have recently started making wooden toys and would like to paint them using your product and coat them with a varnish of some type to ensure they are long lasting.

I see that you have listed many of your products as safe for use on toys as per the NZ standards 2003 which is great but I just want to know if you have this against a more recent version of the standards Just want to make sure that I am using products that are completely safe as they often end up getting chewed on.

A. We recommend that you use Resene Aquaclear, it is an Environmental Choice Approved waterborne clear varnish. However we have not had the cured clear film reviewed for compliance to an NZ toy safety standard.

Q. Can you please let me know the LRV rating of Resene Tapa with the additive ‘CoolColour’? I can find the rating for Resene Tapa on its own on your website, but not with the additive.

A. LRV is a measure of light reflectance only and given this there is no LRV difference between the non-cool and CoolColour™  version of a colour. What does differ is the TSR (Total Solar Reflectance) of the CoolColour version, the TSR of the CoolColour version is higher than the non-cool version. TSR is a measure of heat reflection and does not have a visible reflection of light component. The CoolColour benefit is relative to the same colour made using non cool technology and does not render the surface cool to touch.

Q. I am building a pine timber shed to be used as a bird room. One side is against a fence and will be difficult to repaint but is out of sight. I would prefer a colour and type of paint or stain that does not attract the heat of the sun. It gets very hot quickly in a small area. Would you be able to recommend a type of paint or stain I could use that is easy to work with?

A. Exterior stains are high maintenance - on average the stain will need to be recoated to maintain features every third summer, a shorter maintenance time will apply on more exposed elevations.

Resene CoolColour™  technology does not render the painted surface cool to touch, but a CoolColour version of a colour will reflect more heat than the same colour made using non-cool technology. The lighter the colour the more heat that the colour reflects, white giving the highest heat reflection value.

For new timber (excluding cedar) apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and then two coats of Resene Sonyx 101 tinted to your required colour. Use the CoolColour version of the colour if the selected colour can be tinted to a CoolColour version.

Q. I am looking for a paint to go on frosted wire reinforced glass to reduce sun glare/strike. The application is to a commercial building - factory windows that face North West.

I would prefer the exterior to be painted but it can be interior as an option. I would prefer not to completely block out the sun for general natural light in the area.

A. Sorry we do not have a frosted clear coating for this application. For an opaque option apply an adhesion coat of Resene ConcreteSeal 3 in 1 and then two coats of any Resene exterior waterborne paint tined to your selected colour. The colour on the interior face of the glass will be grey (this is the colour of the Resene Concrete Seal 3 in 1).

Q. What is the best paint to repaint my bach by the sea, and what is your guarantee?

A. The Resene paint system will depend upon the substrate and condition of the existing paintwork.

We cannot guarantee that a Resene paint system is applied to our specification; this is the responsibility of the applicator.

Typically in most coastal situations, a fully pigmented paint system will need a maintenance coat(s) every 8-10 years to maintain aesthetics; this does not mean that the paint will flake. If our paint is applied to a correctly prepared surface, then the paint will maintain adhesion. However, we cannot give any guarantee that the entire paint system will remain adherent following a repaint.

A word of caution re paint guarantees available from some suppliers, in the event of a failure you will have to demonstrate that the failure is due to a paint fault and then you will get the value of the original invoiced paint value and a copy of the original invoice must be available. Almost without exception, a flaking or peeling paint failure is due to inappropriate preparation or application. Gloss/colour changes are also excluded from a guarantee for external paint, both result from the natural weathering processes.

Q. I am repainting the COLORSTEEL® spouting and fascia on our house; it is around 15 years old. There are some small areas of white corrosion that I used Resene Galvo-Prime on. I had finished one side of the house and was waterblasting the next side, when I hit some of the new painted spouting and it blew the new paint right off. It doesn’t seem to have stuck very well at all. I've got three sides left to paint and don't want this to happen again. Should I sand or Scotchbrite® and prime the whole thing before carrying on? The top coat is Resene Hi-Glo. Could there be a problem with the paint? If I need to prime it all, what primer should I use?

A. A waterborne paint takes at least a week to develop good adhesion.

We do not recommend Resene Galvo-Prime as the priming system for galvanised steel that shows white rusting of bare galvanising that has been exposed to weathering for six months, for this situation use Resene GP Metal Primer.

Q. There has been a Raid automatic fly sprayer in our house, but we no longer use one. I prepared and repainted the ceiling and after several months, the fly spray has bled through the new white ceiling paint.

What is the best preparation, so that this does not occur again when I repaint?

A. Wipe the affected area down with Resene Emulsifiable Solvent Cleaner. Ensure that the area is then wiped with water and a cloth, changing water often until the wash water is no longer cloudy and allow it to dry.

Spot prime the area with Resene Sureseal then Resene StainLock and then apply two coats of topcoat finish paint.

Q. I have a wall covered in Resene Write-on Wall Paint - can I paint over it?

A. Remove any residual eraser markings with a cloth and methylated spirits. Sand, using 220 grit sandpaper to de-gloss, dust off and then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen or Resene Zylone Sheen.

Q. Can you please explain the difference between concrete floor sealer and Resene Sureseal and why Resene Sureseal should not be applied to an old concrete garage floor? The floor does not have cars driven or parked on it and has minimal foot traffic.

A. The term sealer has many interpretations, depending upon what the 'sealer' product can do. A sealer may be used to seal off the substrate from penetration by water or other liquids, provide porosity equalisation, reinforce the substrate, or act as an adhesion coat for subsequent topcoat systems.

I see no reason why Resene Sureseal cannot be applied to a friable cementitious substrate, to then allow for overcoating.

For concrete flooring, we usually specify Resene ArmourBond Sealer which can then be topcoated with both water and solventborne epoxy topcoat systems.

Q. We have a concrete block wall, which has been painted and has leaked although the leaks have now been fixed.

Can we apply the Resene Limelock to the painted wall, or do we have to remove the paint before applying the Resene Limelock?

A. If the lime burn has caused the existing paint to flake/blister, then you will need to remove the coating from these areas, to then seal and topcoat.

Spot prime bare concrete with Resene Sureseal, and then if an exterior wall, spot prime the Resene Sureseal areas with Resene X-200, then apply two full coats of Resene X-200.

If interior, replace the Resene X-200 with Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen.

Q. I’m repainting an old garage roller door. I’ve removed all the old paint and primed with Resene Galvo-One. I bought the new colour in Summit Roof, as we’ll repaint the roof in the same colour and I think it’s supposed to cope with the flexing of the substrate? My concern is that it might not cope with the door opening and closing. The paint won’t be rubbing against the frame at all but will roll onto itself on the ‘spool’ at the top when the door opens. Would I be better off with waterbased enamel?

A. As long as the two surfaces painted with Resene Summit Roof do not come into direct contact, there will be no issue.

Q. I am using treated plywood flooring (H3.2 CCA treated). It has a green tinged finish and I would like to stain or paint it white, then seal it with polyurethane. Could you suggest the products I would need to do this?

A. Our wood stains are semi-transparent and hence the timber colour, to which the stains are applied, will influence the colour of the stained timber. The green colour of H3.2 timber treatment is very difficult to cover with a stain to get close to the stain colour applied to a light timber, such as pine.

For painting, apply a prime coat of Resene Wood Primer, then a full coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. I was told by my builder, that on newly installed totara we need a special primer due to the oily properties of totara. Can you please give advice on this?

A. Totara and matai contain a natural anti-oxidant which prevents the drying of traditional oil based primers such as Resene Wood Primer. The recommended Resene primer for both timbers is Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat, which can then be over coated with both solvent and waterborne topcoats.

Q. I'm planning to paint the roof on my rural property. My water supply is rainwater from the roof. Do you carry a roof paint that is non-toxic and suitable for this purpose?

A. We recommend Resene Summit Roof.

Q. Our iron roof was repainted using Resene paint just over a year ago. Since then, bubbles have developed in the paint across the surface. Slicing open some of the bubbles reveal the bare metal, indicating that the old original paint has failed and has been pulled away from the iron by the tension of the new coat. What would be the correct procedure now to remove the bubbled paint?

A. The easiest first step is to high pressure waterblast.

Q. Do you sell a product called orange peel, or is this just the name of an effect? We want to use the product or effect on outdoor tiles, to give a non-slip surface.

A. Orange peel is a term usually used to describe a slight surface texture typically seen with roller application. Resene Walk-on is general purpose paint for concrete that does have slip resistance. Resene SRG Grit can be added for additional slip resistance.

Q. What would you recommend for persistent mildew on painted walls of a laundry? We will be doing some alterations shortly and one of the problems has been the mildew and lack of air flow. Hopefully the alterations will alleviate the air flow problem.

A. Treat all surfaces with Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label directions. Apply two coats of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl Kitchen & Bathroom.

This is the best system to combat the environmental conditions that exist, however to achieve good paint cure, there must be air flow to carry the water out of the room. This may require a fan to be placed in the room to force the air out.

Q. When painting a bathroom, how must I prepare the surface to paint over existing acrylic paint with waterborne enamel? Also, can Resene Sureseal be painted directly on to GIB® Aqualine or does the GIB® need to be lightly sanded?

A. Assuming the existing paintwork is sound, clean down using Resene Interior Paintwork Cleaner then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of a Resene Kitchen & Bathroom waterborne enamel.

Q. I have been using Resene testpots in Metallic Aluminium in a timber toy situation. The previous pots were lustrous and bright and light. The new formula on first use seems duller and does not have that bright silver glitter, lustrous look that I wanted. Can you enlighten me about the new formula?

A. While we have made a change to the aluminium flake used to produce the metallic tint base to achieve better in-can stability, our lab studies have shown that the new metallic base has a bit more sparkle; however it does need a good stir to get it homogeneous.

You are right about the stirring. Whereas with the old formula I got away with a vigorous shake, after a good stir it now appears to be as bright as the original.

Q. We have three Decramastic roofs we want to paint. Can you advise on the best way to do this? There are small amounts of lichen and red surface rust.

A. Remove all loose red rust, using a 3M Rust and Paint Removal Disc, treat lichen using Resene Moss & Mould Killer. After application of Resene Moss & Mould Killer, leave for two weeks to allow for the lichen to become detached. Resene Summit Roof is the recommended topcoat (two coats). We cannot offer any system to restore the chip profile.

Q. Are any of your products suitable for rolling on to a concrete driveway, to provide a texture finish?

A. You can use Resene Non-Skid Deck & Path.

Q. What is the best paint for painting cane furniture? The clear finish is flaking off.

A. Sorry but a very difficult ask re painting as the existing varnish will need to be completely stripped to apply a paint system. The stripping of the cane may be achievable by using a paint stripper.

If this can be achieved then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry primer undercoat and then finish with two coats of Resene Lumbersider. The paints can be brushed onto the cane sections working the paint into the surface to achieve a uniform look.

Q. Is pigmented sealer ok to be used in a pantry? I have a pantry cupboard that has a really bad old musty smell. The shelving is not laminated with anything.

A. I suggest that you wipe the interior surfaces down with bleach and leave for 48 hours then wipe down with warm water and a cloth.

Then apply 2 coats of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat. Maintain good ventilation for 4-5 days before re stocking the pantry.

Q. I have around five weatherboards with flaking paint. I plan to scrape all that flaking paint off, sand the areas back, prime it with Resene Quick Dry then apply two coats of Resene Lumbersider. I'm going to repaint the whole wall though so not just the flaking weatherboards. What I want to know please is whether I can apply the primer across the whole wall (over the existing) weatherboards that aren't flaking or if I should just be spot priming the de-flaked areas? I figured I would get a better result priming and painting the whole wall but am unsure if I can prime on top of existing paint without completely stripping all the weatherboards.

I am using Resene Lumbersider in Resene Concrete.

A. If you use the CoolColour™  version of the colour (this is a good idea to increase heat reflection compared to the non-cool version of the colour) then application of two coats of the CoolColour topcoat applied over a white base coat (Resene Quick Dry) will give the maximum heat reflection value.

Apart from this situation you only absolutely need to use the Resene Quick Dry for spot priming of bare timber.

Q. What product would I use to seal slate flooring, inside & outside?

A. We recommend Resene Walk-on. Where there is a build-up of wet clear, brush these areas out to avoid these areas drying milky.

Q. Could you please advise the best washing and wearing paint for my kitchen? I would like something I can wash with soap and water to get rid of fingerprints and fly spots etc. I am not keen on the bathroom paint which seems to run and leave marks once steam condenses on it.

A. Resene waterborne enamel paint such as a Resene Kitchen & Bathroom paint is the best paint to meet your requirements.

The effect you have seen is usually due to early exposure of the waterborne enamel paint to steam or a poorly ventilated bathroom.

Allow the waterborne enamel to cure for at least three days with good ventilation; this may require the use of a de-humidifier to remove water released from the new paint.

Q. I have a client wanting to waterproof the exterior walls of an unpainted concrete block garage. Is Resene X-200 the correct product to use?

A. The Resene X-200 system will render the blockwork weathertight but not watertight. To be a watertight system the membrane/coating must prevent both liquid and water vapour transfer. Resene X-200 will prevent the transfer of liquid water and thus meets the definition of a weathertight system.

Q. I have chipped and cracked paint on the ceiling and scotia in my bathroom. Most areas are small, but there is one on the ceiling the size of my palm. I have scraped and sanded down and in some cases the plasterboard has some small damage. Do I plaster and then use Resene Sureseal? I want to make sure it gives the best adherence to the surface.

A. Ensure the area where the paint has been removed is sanded back to a sound feathered edge, dust down and then plaster. When the plaster is dry, sand and dust down and then spot prime the plaster with Resene Sureseal and allow to dry. Then apply a full coat of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat. You can then finish with two coats of any Resene Kitchen & Bathroom waterborne enamel topcoat. Allow at least three days cure with good ventilation, before subjecting the newly painted surfaces to steam/condensation.

If the bathroom is quite steamy, you may be better to use oil based paint for the two topcoats, either Resene Room Velvet - low sheen oil based enamel or Resene Lusta-Glo – semi-gloss oil based enamel.

Q. I want to repaint my steel garage door. What number sandpaper and what primer/undercoat and topcoat do I need? It is painted, some of which has chipped off in places and gone back to bare steel/aluminum with no rust. Otherwise it is in good condition.

A. Scrub down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash used to label directions. Sand to feather the edges where paint has chipped off with 180 grit sandpaper, if you find that is too fine, you could use 150 grit sandpaper, which is a little coarser. Prime all bare metal with Resene GP Metal Primer and then apply two coats of Resene Summit Roof paint. If using a dark colour, then we recommend application of the Resene CoolColour™  version of the colour, this will reflect more heat than the same colour made on non-CoolColour technology.

Q. I want to paint some wooden interior stairs. Can you please let me know which paint products are suitable for floor use? We want a pigmented finish. The steps will be pine untreated ply, and the landing will be pine treated ply. Is there one product we should use for both, or would we ideally use two separate primers?

A. Both types of ply can be primed with the same primer – Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat and finish with two coats of Resene Walk-on.

Q. We have a late '80s passive solar home with a central concrete block feature wall, which acts as a heat sink. This concrete wall has been left natural but over the years it has become grubby, with some oil stains on it. I would like to clean this wall and leave it natural. My husband is keen to paint it.

Could you recommend a cleaning product which won't leave streak marks and leave it as clean as possible?

A. I assume that this is an interior wall. Cleaning can be an issue for interior concrete, as most concrete cleaners need to be rinsed off with water. The best product to remove oily stains is Resene Heavy Duty Paint Prep and Oil Remover but use for interior cleaning will be a challenge.

Q. I have a fence stained orange but I want to change it to green. Can I successfully stain over stain? If so, what product can you recommend please?

A. Stains being semi-transparent, can make it very difficult to change to a completely different colour as they still show the underneath colour to some extent. It is difficult to say what the change would be, but I doubt you will get the colour change you desire. Our stain Waterborne Woodsman is available in testpots. If possible you could try it in an inconspicuous area to test what the colour change would be. Resene Woodsman stains are not suitable over film forming stains or mineral oils.

Q. I'm thinking of using the solid stain Resene Lumbersider in colour Resene Feverpitch - after suitable preparation. I also have two steel garage doors which I want to paint the same colour. Is there paint for metal in that same colour? The metal doors have been painted and they are in quite good condition.

A. You certainly will be able to get the colour Resene Feverpitch in paint suitable for these doors.

Scrub down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash used to label directions, you can lightly sand, then assuming no bare metal is present apply two coats of Resene Sonyx 101 (if using dark colours apply the CoolColour™  version of the selected colour. Resene CoolColour™  versions of a colour reflect more heat than the same colour, made using non cool technology.

Q. Do you sell chalk paint or something similar?

A. Resene SpaceCote Flat and Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen which are waterborne enamel can be used on furniture etc to get a chalk style finish.

Q. What is the difference between Resene SpaceCote and Resene Lumbersider paint?

A. Resene SpaceCote is enamel paint and can be used where a tough interior wall, usually ceiling finish is required. Resene Lumbersider is an exterior focused paint based on a waterborneconventional waterborne resin system and is mainly used for painting timber weatherboards and fences.

Q. I'm in a dilemma over what to do with my flooring! I have pulled the carpet up in my lounge and the floors are in their virgin state - no protection or staining. I have applied your Resene Qristal ClearFloor 1k urethane on part of the room and thought the floors would come up a little darker than they have. I have to sand back my dining room area as this has an older, unknown product on and I'm unsure yet if I will be able to remove all the previous applications. Can you advise if you can stain over the Resene Qristal ClearFloor product and if so, what would you recommend? If I sand back the dining room area and apply such stain, will it give a uniform colour for both rooms as these rooms are adjoining?

A. Resene Colorwood stain can only be applied directly to bare timber; however you can add Resene Colorwood Enhance to give extra colour to Resene Qristal ClearFloor 1K.

There are a limited range of Resene Colorwood Enhance colours, so I recommend that you visit a Resene ColorShop and view these on the Resene Woodcare stand.

Q. I am painting over old vanished doors/trims/window sills. I have rough sanded the doors and used a (non Resene) primer sealer undercoat two coats and two coats of Resene Lustacryl waterborne enamel semi-gloss. I have just run my fingernail on it and it peels off back down to the door. What do I do to prevent this, or what am I doing wrong? Could you help please, as I am doing the whole house and have about 10 more doors to do?

A. The issue is the primer you used, has not given adhesion. You will have to remove the existing paint system back to the original varnish and apply a coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer, then reapply the two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. I am going to paint HardiGroove® soffit lining. Can you let me know what undercoat or sealer I need? I'm also painting treated timber and your tech sheets say Resene Quick Dry primer for these. Both are for a covered deck.

A. Use Resene Concrete Primer for the FC soffit linings, then two topcoats of waterborne topcoat. Resene Quick Dry is suitable as the deck primer.

Q. Many years ago I recoated a cork tile floor with a Resene moisture cured clear. The result was fine and it has lasted well. It’s now due for a recoat. The product previously used, had an exceptionally strong odour. Does Resene have a product that is less volatile, will last as well and is compatible over the old finish? I will sand the floor thoroughly (without breaking the surface) beforehand.

It’s a large area and I would prefer to use a roller and apply one flooded coat, if that’s possible.

A. Resene Polythane remains our toughest wearing clear, the best single pack clear would be Resene Qristal ClearFloor 1K but while it has good wear resistance for a waterborne clear, it does not match Resene Polythane.

When using Resene Polythane, ventilation to vent the solvent to an exterior area is the only way to reduce/prevent odours from being absorbed into furnishings and the like.

Q. Can I use acrylic wall board sealer, to spot prime previously acrylic painted Shadow Clad?

A. Sorry but no, we recommend Resene Quick Dry.

Q. What is the best small bathroom ceiling paint to resist mould and blistering/cracking/crazing due to steam from shower (fan ventilation over shower has not helped a lot up till now).

A. Installation of a Showerdome® goes a long way to addressing steam issues in small bathrooms.

Pretreat the ceiling with Resene Moss & Mould Killer diluted and used to label directions. If the existing paint is sound, sand and then apply a coat of Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat and finish with two coats of Resene SpaceCote Low Sheen Kitchen & Bathroom.

Allow the system to cure for at least two days after application of the last coat of paint, with good ventilation, before subjecting the new paint to steam/condensation.

Q. Could you please advise if you have a clear coating system that could be used for exposed, in-situ concrete walls in residential construction to ensure water-tightness?

A. We recommend Resene XC-700.

The concrete surface to be painted really needs to be of a uniform finish, especially free of bug holes. The Resene XC-700 System is a saturation coat of Resene Solventborne Aquapel and then three coats of XC-700 applied to data sheet coverage rates. The system should not need recoating until year 10 and as long as there is no water ingress issues, the coating can be recoated either with Resene XC-700 or Resene Concrete Clear.

An annual wash-down with Resene Paint Prep and Housewash used to label directions is recommended.

Q. I have been preparing a room for painting and before I paint, I was a bit concerned at the imperfections I have filled. I have applied a coat or two of filler and sanded back, I can still see a mark (sometimes faint) of where the imperfection is. Do I need to prime this first before I paint, to make sure the marks don't come through? The walls have been painted previously.

A. Filled areas should be primed first before applying topcoats. Topcoats often do not seal porous fillers, whereas dedicated primer/sealers will. I also suggest that you use PAL Contract Filler for filling, as experience has shown us that it is a good dense filler when dry, however it still requires priming before topcoating.

When filling and sanding, the filled area can be smoother than the surrounding area and this may be the cause of why you can still see the filled areas, the other possibility is the filler porosity.

Q. I painted the exterior of my home a little over three years ago with Resene Lumbersider. The weatherboards were not in terrific shape and my prep obviously wasn’t appropriate, as I have to re-prep and paint the north facing aspects. The paint ‘came away’ mostly where there has been filler and small checks/cracks in the underlying weatherboard. I’ve epoxy glued the checks/cracks where they were worst. After scraping, sanding and sugar soap washing of the weatherboards and windows/frames, I’ve applied Resene TimberLock to the exposed wood.

However, I notice where the Resene TimberLock has come in contact with the existing paint surface, it has sometimes caused the paint to feel ‘rubbery’ - almost the same effect as a paint stripping compound.

1) Does Resene TimberLock, need to be removed from the painted surfaces before priming and painting? If so, I suspect the only method is mechanical removal by way of sanding?

A. Minor overlap of Resene TimberLock onto a painted surface is not a major issue.

2) Does a wooden surface treated with Resene TimberLock need to be processed in any special way prior to priming/undercoating? It does seem to have an ‘oily’ appearance and would like to make sure it is ok to apply base coat/primer.

A. Resene TimberLock is a consolidator for aged/weathered timber but not a dedicated wood primer. Given the age of your property, it is likely that the timber is a native species so the primer to use is Resene Quick Dry waterborne primer undercoat. Allow the Resene TimberLock to dry for at least 48 hours before overcoating.

3) Once surface is primed, do any further ‘filled’ areas need to be spot primed again?

A. Yes, filled areas need to be spot primed.

4) I’ve had particular issues with the north facing window sills. After 3 years there was very little adhesion of the paint. The sills have suffered badly over the years, with deep checks/surface cracking evident. Are there any specific recommendations for preparing and painting these areas? I’ve used Gorilla Glue Premium to initially secure these ‘checks’ and now with the TimberLock applied, it has given what seems to be a very good and hardy initial base to prime paint. But maybe you have further recommendations before I prime paint?

A. We usually recommend filling cracks with RepairCare DryFlex SF epoxy filler. After crack filling prime the sills with Resene Quick Dry and then apply two coats of Resene Lustacryl (if using a dark colour use the CoolColour™  version of the colour, the CoolColour will reflect more heat than the same colour made using non-cool technology).

Q. We recently had the interior of our house painted with your paint. Although this was done some time ago, the paint remains tacky and if anything is left touching the walls, it sticks to the wall. Sometimes the paint detaches from the wall and remains attached to whatever was touching it. Clearly there's something wrong.

The paint was Resene Zylone Sheen. The painting was done in early December, although two rooms were painted in about July or August (they have the same problem). The paint was applied with a brush and a roller onto wallpaper (its textured wallpaper).

A. The direct application to the wallpaper is probably the cause. Most wallpaper contains a compound called a plasticiser and when painted with a waterborne paint, these plasticisers migrate into the paint causing softening and a permanent surface tack/tickiness.

The only fix is to apply a coat of Resene Vinyl Wallpaper Sealer, and then re-apply the topcoat paint.

Q. We have black Onduline® cladding that is starting to get powdery breakdown on sun-facing sides. We would like to retain its informal matt appearance. Can you recommend options? It would be nice to apply a ‘preservative’ rather than a uniform paint finish perhaps.

A. Application of a solid paint system is the only way to extend the cladding life.

Scrub down using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash used to label directions to give a sound chalk free surface. Then apply a prime coat of Resene Galvo-Prime and finish with two coats of Resene Lumbersider CoolColour™  Resene Black.

Q. I am after furniture paint that would be good for repainting laminate as well as wooden furniture (tables, cupboards etc.)

A. There is a specific adhesion primer (Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer) required for a laminates such as Melteca® or Formica®. Other timbers can be primed with Resene Quick Dry.

After priming you can then apply two coats of Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel.

Q. I have put some tiles over a concrete path, which turned out to be very slippery. Is there a product that can be painted over? The tiles are glazed.

A. Ensure the tiles are clean and then apply a coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer and leave to cure for 24 hours (best if there is no rainfall or condensation over this time) then apply two coats of Resene Walk-on.

Q. I'm looking for an anti-slip friction/textured paint, for a timber deck footbridge, to prevent a slippery surface during wet weather?

A. We recommend Resene Non-Skid Deck & Path.

Q. I'm painting some old metal Dexion shelving, and wondered if I can use interior/exterior waterbased enamel (Resene Enamacryl) or if I need to use roof/metal paint? They're for a garage, so they don't need to look perfect. They are quite rusty in places, so I'll use a rust kill primer where they've been sanded back to bare metal.

A. Remove all loose red rust, using a 3M Rust and Paint Removal Disc then spot prime using Resene GP Metal Primer then apply two coats of topcoat. For shelving, conventional solventborne enamel such as Resene Super Gloss will cure to a harder finish.

Q. I have just painted a large area in blackboard paint and I want to change it to a smooth surface that I can use liquid chalk pens on. Would you have any products to do that job, or can you point me in the right direction?

A. Clean all chalk residues from the Resene Blackboard Paint then apply two coats of Resene Write-on Wall Paint.

Q. I need to know the most popular ‘blacks’ that get used, that can cope with sea salt as I am close to the beach. I also need a good matt clear decking oil for an old, reclaimed wharf timber deck around a pool.

A. The colour does not impact upon a paint’s ability to cope with the coastal environment. We recommend using Resene Sonyx 101 as the topcoat paint and if you choose a dark colour, use the Resene CoolColour™  version of the colour. Two topcoats will need to be applied over a correctly prepared and primed substrate.

Q. We have removed easy peel wallpaper from a wall and followed the instructions for removal of paste (wash off no scraping required). The wall was smooth and wasn't sticky, so we painted over with waterbased paint. After three coats we can see a mottled effect, clearly there was glue residue and we did not know to use a sealer before applying the paint. We'd prefer to use waterbased but will it work? And alternatively, could we just wallpaper directly over the wall as it is, without adding anything more?

A. Our recommendation is to apply a coat of Resene Sureseal after stripping wallpaper. This does lock in any glue residues so when a waterborne topcoat is applied, there is no glue bleed into the paint.

Resene has a number of waterborne sealers/primers than can be overcoated with both solvent and waterborne topcoat systems. In the past application of a solventborne topcoat to waterbased paint, would result in film splitting/wrinkling. But that was when the waterborne paints were based on a very soft resin system.

Q. How do I remove waterbased paint from aluminium joinery?

A. If the waterbased paint is fresh, try wiping with a cloth wet with meths. The other option is to use Resene Graffiti Cleaner but try a test patch first, in a non-conspicuous area.

Q. What problems might arise if I mix similar types and colours of paint but with different gloss levels?

A. You can only mix compatible paints; not all waterborne paints can be mixed. If you mix differing gloss levels of compatible paints you will achieve a change if gloss, determined by the relative volumes of each paint. An accurate record of the mixing ratio/volumes should be kept if trying to reproduce the gloss level.

Q. If there is very high humidity can this affect the sheen of a waterborne enamel?

A. In very high humidity conditions the film formation could be negatively affected, or there may be a layer of surfactant on the surface. It would be useful to clean the surface and see if the sheen improves. Solventborne enamels can also suffer from low gloss in such conditions.

Q. I'm recovering parts of a fence/fence railings/some concrete. It’s exposed to sun for much of the day and the weather. Looking at your products I'm figuring the Resene Lumbersider/CoolColour might suit.

A. Direct application of Resene Lumbersider to timber is really only advised for new timber or timber that has not been exposed to prolonged weathering. There will be a preparation and priming requirement for weathered timber prior to application of the Resene Lumbersider.

Q. We are looking into painting our brick house and have become a bit confused about what the best paint choices for doing this are. It is an early 80s clinker brick house. We read a Resene inspiration gallery article about a clinker brick house with the clinker chiselled off and then sealed and painted and are planning to do the same. We have chipped the clinker off and come to a bit of a grinding halt.

On the painting brickwork flow chart reference is specifically made to clinker bricks - with a comment about plastering over them. Is this recommended for the longevity and function of the original structure (given that some of the brick has been chipped away and that bricks have a porous nature) or simply a recommendation for an alternative aesthetic? We would consider plastering and then painting if that would be better for the structure of the house.

A. Clinker brick was never considered to be painted your prep details are in line with what is commonly accepted to remove the high texture points/areas from the brick.

Once this has been done then we would recommend the following; apply a saturation coat of Resene Solventborne Aquapel and leave to cure for at least 48 hours before overcoating.

Apply a primer coat of Resene Concrete Primer and finish with two coats of a Resene exterior waterborne paint.

Painting will not result in a smooth surface and there may be residual holes in the substrate visible after painting. To address this you may want to consider applying a plaster coat to give a smooth surface or a surface with a consistent texture. If you decide to look into this please contact Resene Construction Systems Ltd.

Q. My home has been built on a concrete slab. At one end of the home the land gently slopes away which means that some concrete blocks around 0.5m high 8m in length are visible. The blocks have been previously painted and now I want to paint them in a different colour to match the house that I just painted in Resene Lumbersider.

I have waterblasted the blocks and some of the old paint has come off, probably around 25%, which leaves each block looking a bit patchy with some sound paint and areas of no paint. Can I just overcoat with Resene Lumbersider or should I undercoat/prime the patchy areas or undercoat the whole area with another product before applying the Resene Lumbersider?

A. Spot prime bare areas with Resene Sureseal then apply the Resene Lumbersider.

Q. What type of paint do I use for PVC pipe, which is out in the elements?

A. Use two coats of any Resene exterior waterborne paint applied to clean PVC, no need for an adhesion primer. The adhesion develops over 5-7 days.

Q. I have an enamel bucket, which is starting to rust. I do have some paint which I purchased to repaint a children's metal climbing frame, which was starting to rust and am thinking that should be suitable for the bucket after I have given it a thorough clean and sand. Then maybe oil based enamel paint on top of that.

A. We suggest the following: sand rusted areas to remove all lose rust, dust off then spot prime the prepared area with Resene Rust-Arrest.

When the primer is dry, apply a thin coat of Resene Waterborne Smooth Surface Sealer to the sound enamel areas and leave to dry for 48 hours, and then apply two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. I'm keen to paint an old wooden-framed mirror for my daughter's bedroom. I think the surface is oil-stained wood. What sort of primer would I need to use to ensure the stain doesn't seep through the final paint coat, and to ensure the paint sticks?

A. A seal coat of Resene Sureseal would be our recommendation to address potential stain bleed.

Q. We have a tin roof on a garage that has a lot of rust. How are we best to treat this? It’s just surface rust so does it need wire brushing and then coating with a product?

A. The standard system would be to wash down using Resene Roof and Metal Wash diluted and used to label directions, then spot prime prepared areas of red rust, with two coats of Resene Galvo-Prime and if the rest of the roof is weathered bare galvanising, apply a full coat of Resene Galvo One and finish with two coats of Resene Summit Roof.

Q. Which paint is best for concrete, it’s for an internal garage floor?

A. We suggest Resene Aquapoxy for Flooring.

Q. I am after technical advice about painting a H3.2 machine gauged, timber deck balustrade. The balustrade is on an old villa and needs to look like an existing one. The construction of the existing rail is in need of painting. The intention is the new rail should match (both will ideally have more gloss on the finish.) The new rail has been built and the timber used isn't great, and I'm not sure any paint system will get it up to standard.

A. If it has been installed pre-primed then it could be left for about a month, then sanded and reprimed prior to topcoating. Pre-primers are not always of the same standard of quality as our primers and this is why we always will recommend repriming.

Use Resene Quick Dry primer undercoat as the primer and then apply two coats of Resene Lustacryl.

Q. I am using treated plywood flooring (H3.2 CCA treated). It has a green tinged finish and I would like to stain or paint it white, then seal it with polyurethane. Could you suggest the products I would need to do this?

A. Our wood stains are semi-transparent and hence the timber colour, to which the stains are applied, will influence the colour of the stained timber. The green colour of H3.2 timber treatment is very difficult to cover with a stain, to get close to the stain colour applied to a light timber such as pine.

For painting, apply a primer coat of Resene Wood Primer, then a full coat of Resene Quick Dry and finish with two coats of Resene Lustacryl .

Q. I am looking to get some paint to apply to galvanised steel struts. Could you recommend a primer and paint type that would be suitable?

A. Use Resene Armourcote 220 and then Resene Uracryl 403 for the topcoats.